Chicago

The Chicago issue, November 2026

Chicago

Chicago rises abruptly from the flat Midwestern plains, a colossal monument of steel, stone, and glass framing the deep blue of Lake Michigan.

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The Chicago reading list

All 30 Chicago stories

More from the Chicago issue

From Bronzeville to the Green Mill: Following Chicago's Living Jazz and Blues Lineage

From Bronzeville to the Green Mill: Following Chicago's Living Jazz and Blues Lineage

Kasia Duda
The City That Invented the Sky: Chicago's Architecture

The City That Invented the Sky: Chicago's Architecture

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Open House Chicago in Three Half-Days and Two Late Nights

Open House Chicago in Three Half-Days and Two Late Nights

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Where Chicago Eats When It Isn't Eating Pizza

Where Chicago Eats When It Isn't Eating Pizza

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Chicago's Basement Comedy Rooms After Midnight

Chicago's Basement Comedy Rooms After Midnight

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How Lincoln Park Zoo Became Chicago's Free Backyard

How Lincoln Park Zoo Became Chicago's Free Backyard

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Wrigleyville, Chicago, from the ballpark to the lakefront

Wrigleyville, Chicago, from the ballpark to the lakefront

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Chicago at Halloween Without a Single Haunted House

Chicago at Halloween Without a Single Haunted House

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A Chicago Weekend Around Doja Cat at the United Center

A Chicago Weekend Around Doja Cat at the United Center

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Humboldt Park in Chicago from the swan boats to Paseo Boricua

Humboldt Park in Chicago from the swan boats to Paseo Boricua

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Chicago Is Where Modern Improv Was Born, and Still Lives

Chicago Is Where Modern Improv Was Born, and Still Lives

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How Chicago Turned Its Ashes Into a Steel Skyline

How Chicago Turned Its Ashes Into a Steel Skyline

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Walking Chicago's Magnificent Mile from river to the Drake

Walking Chicago's Magnificent Mile from river to the Drake

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Walking Chicago's Magnificent Mile in October 2026
Tours and tickets

Walking Chicago's Magnificent Mile in October 2026

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Chicago's Northalsted from the Legacy Walk to last call

Chicago's Northalsted from the Legacy Walk to last call

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Chicago's Streeterville from the Water Tower to Navy Pier

Chicago's Streeterville from the Water Tower to Navy Pier

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Uptown Chicago from the Green Mill to the Magic Hedge

Uptown Chicago from the Green Mill to the Magic Hedge

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Chicago in October for First-Time Visitors

Chicago in October for First-Time Visitors

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Chicago's Speakeasy Circuit Behind Unmarked Doors

Chicago's Speakeasy Circuit Behind Unmarked Doors

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Chicago's Navy Pier in October Without the Summer Crush
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Chicago's Navy Pier in October Without the Summer Crush

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Walking Andersonville, Chicago's Swedish Clark Street

Walking Andersonville, Chicago's Swedish Clark Street

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Walking Chicago's Chinatown from the gate to the river

Walking Chicago's Chinatown from the gate to the river

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The Pizza War Nobody Wins: Chicago's Deep-Dish vs Tavern-Style Divide

The Pizza War Nobody Wins: Chicago's Deep-Dish vs Tavern-Style Divide

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Dragged Through the Garden: Chicago's Hot Dog Stands and the City's No-Ketchup Religion

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Chicago's Decade of Rebuilding After the Great Fire

Chicago's Decade of Rebuilding After the Great Fire

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An insider’s read on Chicago

Chicago's identity is forged in fire and industry. The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 leveled the city, but also cleared the canvas for the world's first skyscrapers, attracting legendary architects like Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright. As a vital rail hub and the home of the Union Stock Yards, it became an industrial powerhouse, drawing waves of European immigrants and Black Americans during the Great Migration.

This complex history of labor, migration, and political machinery created a city of fierce neighborhood pride, deep-seated segregation, and a resilient, creative spirit that birthed house music, modern improv comedy, and Chicago-style blues.

Chicago
Chicago, United States

This is where Chicago's true character resides: in the low-rise brick two-flats, the corner taverns serving bitter local spirits

From our Chicago guide

17 neighbourhoods, 17 ways to stay

Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.

The Loop

The Loop

First-time visitors who want to be steps from major cultural institutions. The trade-off is that the area becomes quiet and lacks local character after office hours.

The historic business district, defined by towering skyscrapers, canyon-like streets, and the elevated train tracks that encircle it.

Where to stay Grand historic hotels and high-end business properties.

Stay in The Loop
River North

River North

Diners and nightlife seekers who want to be in the center of the action. The trade-off is high prices, heavy traffic, and a commercialized atmosphere.

A sleek, high-density neighborhood packed with art galleries, upscale restaurants, and high-rise residential towers.

Where to stay Trendy boutique hotels and luxury high-rises.

Stay in River North
West Loop & Fulton Market

West Loop & Fulton Market

Serious food lovers and design enthusiasts. The trade-off is a lack of green space and a rapidly gentrifying, expensive environment.

A former meatpacking and industrial district transformed into the city's premier culinary and design hub.

Where to stay Industrial-chic boutique hotels.

Stay in West Loop & Fulton Market
Wicker Park & Bucktown

Wicker Park & Bucktown

Creatives, shoppers, and fans of indie music. The trade-off is that parking is nearly impossible and some areas feel overly commercialized.

An artistic, bohemian enclave known for vintage clothing stores, indie coffee shops, and historic stone-front homes.

Where to stay Neighborhood guesthouses and boutique properties.

Stay in Wicker Park & Bucktown
Lincoln Park

Lincoln Park

Families and those seeking a quieter, scenic stay. The trade-off is that it is far from the Blue Line train, requiring bus or Red Line transit.

An affluent, historic neighborhood with quiet, tree-lined streets, Victorian row houses, and immediate lakefront access.

Where to stay Quiet bed-and-breakfasts and residential boutique hotels.

Stay in Lincoln Park
Logan Square

Logan Square

Budget-conscious travelers, cocktail enthusiasts, and coffee purists. The trade-off is a longer commute to downtown attractions.

A progressive neighborhood defined by historic parkways, stately graystone homes, craft cocktail bars, and indie venues.

Where to stay Local apartment rentals and small guesthouses.

Stay in Logan Square
Pilsen

Pilsen

Art lovers and fans of authentic Mexican cuisine. The trade-off is a lack of traditional hotel options.

The vibrant heart of Chicago's Mexican-American community, rich with colorful street murals, independent galleries, and traditional bakeries.

Where to stay Local homestays and apartment rentals.

Stay in Pilsen
Hyde Park

Hyde Park

History buffs, book lovers, and architecture admirers. The trade-off is that it is far south, requiring a Metra train or bus to reach the North Side.

An intellectual, historic neighborhood dominated by the Gothic campus of the University of Chicago and leafy residential streets.

Where to stay Academic-focused boutique hotels.

Stay in Hyde Park
Gold Coast

Gold Coast

Luxury travelers and architecture enthusiasts. The trade-off is a formal, less diverse neighborhood vibe.

An ultra-wealthy historic district featuring Gilded Age mansions, quiet tree-shaded streets, and high-end designer boutiques.

Where to stay Historic luxury hotels.

Stay in Gold Coast
Chinatown

Chinatown

A compact, highly walkable district for Chinese food, bakeries, cultural landmarks and a riverside park close to downtown. Good year-round; Chinese New Year and summer festivals add extra atmosphere.

Stay in Chinatown
Uptown

Uptown

One of Chicago's strongest evening destinations, with historic music venues, grand theaters, global food and lakefront green space. Indoor venues make it reliable year-round; Montrose Point is especially pleasant from May through October.

Stay in Uptown
Wrigleyville

Wrigleyville

The neighborhood to choose for a Cubs game, baseball-themed bars, energetic nightlife and the spectacle of historic Wrigley Field. Most atmospheric during the MLB season, roughly late March through September; game days are busiest.

Stay in Wrigleyville
Streeterville

Streeterville

A lakefront visitor district built around Navy Pier, skyline views, major museums, shopping and dramatic public spaces. Navy Pier and lakefront activities peak from May through September, while museums and shopping work in any weather.

Stay in Streeterville
Magnificent Mile

Magnificent Mile

Chicago's signature high-end shopping and architecture boulevard, easily paired with landmark buildings, river views and upscale dining. Best for outdoor strolling from May through October; holiday lights and window displays make November and December especially popular.

Stay in Magnificent Mile
Andersonville

Andersonville

A friendly, walkable Clark Street corridor known for Swedish heritage, LGBTQ+ culture, independent shops, restaurants and neighborhood nightlife. Particularly lively during Midsommarfest in June; the shops, bars and theaters work well year-round.

Stay in Andersonville
Northalsted (Boystown)

Northalsted (Boystown)

A concentrated LGBTQ+ entertainment district with rainbow landmarks, bars, restaurants, theaters and a famously sociable evening scene. Busiest during Chicago Pride in June and Northalsted Market Days in August; nightlife is active year-round.

Stay in Northalsted (Boystown)
Humboldt Park

Humboldt Park

A rewarding West Side outing built around a grand park, Puerto Rican culture, colorful murals, food and the National Museum of Puerto Rican Arts and Culture. Best from May through October, especially during summer Puerto Rican festivals and outdoor events.

Stay in Humboldt Park

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The Chicago guide

Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.

Where to eat

Dining

17 places
Shaw's Crab House
River North€€€

Shaw's Crab House

A classic 1930s-style oyster bar with a lively atmosphere and retro charm.

Signature: Alaskan king crab legs and freshly shucked oysters

Calumet Fisheries
South Side€

Calumet Fisheries

A historic, no-nonsense roadside smokehouse operating since 1948 on the Calumet River.

Signature: House-smoked garlic trout and smoked salmon

Lure Fishbar
River North€€€

Lure Fishbar

A sophisticated, yacht-inspired basement venue offering premium raw bar options and sushi.

Signature: Spicy tuna crispy rice and lobster rolls

Bavette's Bar & Boeuf
River North€€€€

Bavette's Bar & Boeuf

A dimly lit, French-accented parlor that rejects the corporate steakhouse aesthetic in favor of romance and jazz.

Signature: Dry-aged bone-in ribeye with spiced bone marrow

Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse
Gold Coast€€€€

Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse

The quintessential Chicago power-dining spot, famous for its prime beef and celebrity sightings.

Signature: The W.R.'s Chicago Cut ribeye

Gene & Georgetti
River North€€€

Gene & Georgetti

Chicago's oldest steakhouse, serving unpretentious cuts in a clubby, wood-paneled room since 1941.

Signature: T-bone steak served with cottage fries

Lou Malnati's Pizzeria
River North€€

Lou Malnati's Pizzeria

The gold standard for authentic deep-dish pizza, featuring a distinct, crispy crust.

Signature: The Malnati Chicago Classic deep-dish with sausage

Pequod's Pizza
Lincoln Park€€

Pequod's Pizza

Famous for its pan-style pizza featuring a caramelized, burnt-cheese crust.

Signature: Deep-dish pan pizza with sausage and onions

Al's #1 Italian Beef
Little Italy€

Al's #1 Italian Beef

The birthplace of the wet, spiced beef sandwich, serving locals since 1938.

Signature: Italian beef sandwich, 'dipped' with hot giardiniera

Alinea
Lincoln Park€€€€

Alinea

A world-renowned temple of modernist gastronomy offering a highly theatrical multi-course tasting menu.

Signature: The edible helium balloon made from green apple

Oriole
West Loop€€€€

Oriole

A hidden alleyway entrance leads to an intimate, flawless tasting menu focused on global flavors.

Signature: Capellini with black truffle and rye

Kasama
Ukrainian Village€€€€

Kasama

The world's first Michelin-starred Filipino restaurant, operating as a bakery by day and a modern tasting menu by night.

Signature: Mushroom adobo with shaved truffles

Redhot Ranch
Bucktown€

Redhot Ranch

A no-nonsense, cash-only hot dog and burger stand that epitomizes late-night Chicago dining.

Signature: Double cheeseburger served with fresh-cut fries

Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen
South Loop€€

Manny's Cafeteria & Delicatessen

A historic Jewish deli where politicians and locals rub shoulders over massive sandwiches.

Signature: Corned beef sandwich on rye with a potato pancake

Birrieria Zaragoza
Archer Heights€€

Birrieria Zaragoza

A family-run spot dedicated entirely to perfecting Mexican roasted goat.

Signature: Birria tatemada (roasted goat) with handmade corn tortillas

The Chicago Diner
Logan Square€

The Chicago Diner

A legendary meat-free diner serving hearty vegetarian comfort food since 1983.

Signature: The Radical Reuben sandwich and vegan milkshakes

Handlebar
Wicker Park€€

Handlebar

A bike-friendly neighborhood bar serving hearty vegetarian and vegan comfort food alongside craft beer.

Signature: Fried avocado tacos and vegan biscuits and gravy

Timing

When to visit

Spring

April to May brings highly unpredictable weather, ranging from late snowstorms to warm afternoons. Tulip displays line Michigan Avenue, and museum crowds are thin.

Summer

June to August is when the city comes alive. Street festivals take over neighborhoods every weekend, the lakefront beaches open, and hotel rates peak.

Autumn

September to October is the sweet spot. The air is crisp, fall foliage fills the parks, and the summer crowds have departed.

Winter

November to March is brutally cold with heavy snowfall and biting winds off the lake. However, hotel prices drop significantly and indoor attractions are empty.

What it costs

Budgeting

Backpacker
€60-90
Mid-range
€160-250
Luxury
€450+

Logistics

Getting around

Map of Chicago

From the airport

From O'Hare (ORD), take the CTA Blue Line train directly to the Loop (approx. 45 minutes). From Midway (MDW), take the CTA Orange Line (approx. 30 minutes). Both options cost under €5 and bypass highway traffic.

Public transit

The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) operates the 'L' train system and an extensive bus network. It is highly efficient, safe, and covers almost all areas of interest to travelers.

Passes & tickets

A 1-day or 3-day CTA transit pass offers unlimited rides on all trains and buses and is highly economical (€ band). Purchase via the Ventra app or at station kiosks.

On foot

The Loop, River North, and the lakefront are exceptionally walkable. However, the city is geographically massive; traveling between distant neighborhoods requires transit or rideshares.

Local etiquette

Safety & etiquette

  • Never ask for ketchup on a hot dog; it is considered a major culinary faux pas.
  • Stand on the right and walk on the left of escalators in transit stations.
  • Tipping of 18-20% is standard and expected at all sit-down restaurants and bars.

Travel smart

Practical tips

  1. Avoid Navy Pier unless traveling with small children; it is a commercialized tourist trap lacking authentic local character.
  2. Buy museum tickets online in advance to skip the massive ticket lines, especially at the Art Institute and Shedd Aquarium.
  3. Take the water taxi instead of a standard tour boat for a cheap, scenic transit option along the Chicago River.
  4. If visiting in winter, invest in a knee-length down coat and boots with good traction; the wind tunnels between skyscrapers are brutal.
  5. Check the baseball schedule before booking; game days drastically increase transit crowds and hotel prices in Wrigleyville.
  6. Download the Ventra app before arriving to easily pay for trains and buses with your phone.

Before you go

Chicago FAQs

Is deep-dish pizza really what locals eat?

No, locals actually eat thin-crust tavern-style pizza cut into squares for their regular meals, saving deep-dish for special occasions or when hosting visitors.

Why is it called the Windy City?

While the wind off Lake Michigan is real, the nickname actually originated from 19th-century journalists mocking the city's long-winded politicians.

Can you swim in Lake Michigan?

Yes, during the summer months (mid-June to September), the water is warm enough and there are dozens of free public beaches along the lakefront.

Which airport is better to fly into?

O'Hare is larger with more international flights, while Midway is smaller, closer to downtown, and much easier to navigate.

Do I need to rent a car?

No, parking is incredibly expensive and the CTA train and bus network can easily get you to every major attraction and neighborhood.